Il Tartufo
64 Sukhumvit Road Soi 51
Bangkok 10110
Tel: 02 269 3569

A couple of months ago I received an email from Flavio the chef patron suggesting I visit his new restaurant, Il Tartufo. I finally managed to get there the other evening and as ever I did not introduce myself, nor did I see Flavio. That is my usual modus operandi; as I always say I pays my way and says what I think. In my opinion that is the only way a restaurant reviewer can operate; I do not write fluff. However I welcome invitations such as the one I received from Flavio.
The building is impressive; I thought the place would be upmarket but not in the manner it is. There is plenty of parking in the garden and drive so first impressions shout class and upscale. I did find a little on the net about Il Tartufo in what looked like an official review (if you get my drift) and it told me that Flavio has been flitting around between restaurants of late, probable trying to get the spondoolics together to create this palace.
There is an outside bar area that looked quite jolly and inside a good space with glass walls and a bar. I had not booked, it being a Tuesday, and was surprised to see how full the downstairs was. However there was more room in another area a few steps up. It is a comfortable room with nice crisp white table cloths, decent chairs and some modern impressionist paintings in the mode of naive is how contemporary menu speak might describe what was hanging on the walls!
The wine list had good range of Italian wines with a section dedicated to premium wines as well as to Magnums. The prices ranged from 1,000 Baht upwards with not many below 2,000 Baht. Sadly the price of wine in Bangkok is one reason I spend less time in the city. The government's vindictive taxation of wines may be the main reason for the prices but the restaurateurs do not help by insisting upon their full pound of flesh. With the plus plus (service and VAT) the wine I chose, a very ordinary Piedmont white, Langhe Bianco, came to the best part of £50 - in London I could get something a bit special for that and in Piedmont for 57 Euros it would be approaching the best.
The food menu seemed to rely heavily on the specials as there were 15 in that section covering appetisers, first courses and mains alone. On the main menu there were eight appetisers and nine second courses (mains). My personal feeling was the menu lacked choice but I am probable being picky because nothing grabbed my attention to the point where I said I must have that! Fish certainly featured strongly in the specials section and in the second courses it had four listings of mainly European fish. The whole French turbot on the specials menu might have attracted more attention if I was not about to get on a plane to France! although at 1,200 Baht it was not an insignificant option. In the event I had rack of lamb with mint pesto at 750 Baht and that was the most expensive in that section. The specials were more expensive. My companion had chicken breast with ham and smoked cheese. For the starters we did choose off the special menu with a plate of Artisan cold cuts.
I am not sure why my cold cuts were special, not that there was anything wrong with them. It was a good selection of salamis, hams and mortadella. All were cut very thin which I know is the right way although I prefer something I can get my teeth into. It was good plateful for two.
Both the mains were beautifully laid out. As can be seen in the pictures precise and carefully thought out garnish and vegetables set off the meat. The rolled chicken breast looked almost like a large scampi but to me the piece de resistance was the potato pillars that the lamb sat on. I will illuminate because it was a clever piece of culinary art. I think, upon checking Larousse Gastronomique, that the potatoes were a la crème in style. They were very thinly sliced potatoes in pillars. I assume they made a large dish of potatoes a la crème but sliced them exceedingly thinly; I suspect the meat slicer that produced those thin wafers of cold platter was used. The thin slices were then finished off in a casserole with cream. They were lightly browned then cut with something like a pastry cutter as the circles were perfect. So upon each circle of potatoes a lamb chop rested. In addition the minimalist garnish included asparagus that had been scraped to make the stalk white while the tip was green. I was less impressed with the lamb that had had all the fat trimmed of it. Flavio has obviously spent too long in the land of bankrupt motor manufacturers. I did try the chicken and found it fairly bland but then I would. And I have to say my dessert of Marsala poached pear with gratinated zabalon looked great but exactly what the strange idea of grantinating zabalon was about I am not sure.
Clearly the food scores very highly on presentation and concept. As to the content, well it did not really kick my butt but there was nothing wrong with it. The service was good except for serving the amuse bouche after the starter had arrived, and I was really hungry and could have done with a nibble whist waiting. I think this was a little hiccup by some keen but inexperienced staff. The surroundings and decor are great if you want to impress the boss, or anybody else for that matter. Il Tartufo is a very serious restaurant. I probably should have tried one of the several dishes with truffles and instead of being mildly disappointed I would doubtless be singing in praise. But as I said, I pays my money and etc. etc. Try it and let me know!