Fuzio,
6th Floor
Mini Building (Millennium Auto)
Sukhumvit Soi 67 (Ekamai) Soi 7
Bangkok
Tel: 02 271 6999.

When I first heard about this restaurant I was a tad confused as it refers to itself as stylish Italian! Well I had heard of stylish Italian clothes, stylish Italian furniture and even stylish Italian hairdressing (although I hasten to add that did not refer to the hair slaughter house I recently ventured into in Alba), but never stylish Italian food. This description may have had something to do with the stylish German cars sold downstairs; yes, modern Minis are considered stylish although the first one I owned with a waggly long gear lever and a floor starter was considered more practical that stylish. I suppose we could blame it all on the 'Italian job, ' the first one of course with the cameo by the ever stylish Noel Coward now stylishly back in fashion thanks to one half of the Pet Shop Boys.
On a wet Monday my defiantly un-stylish Bangkok taxi weaved me through the typical Bangkok traffic to this location amid the trendy bits of Ekamai. The location is easy to find as the Mini building stands out on Ekamai and the entrance is just round the corner in soi 7 with a car parking area that can be driven into. Thus, customers are deposited directly at the stylish lift that whisks them directly to the oh so stylish bit on the 6th floor. The large restaurant is stylish in a modern minimalist sort of way with dark colours, white table cloths and bright flowers. Stylish décor, I decided, as I looked forward to the food.
As ever I wanted to start with a bottle of white wine which would be both an aperitif and the wine for the starters. The list was decent length with several more interesting wines including some good Alsatian wines from that region’s premier négociant, Hugel, as well a good selection of white Burgundies. However the prices were fashionably, or should I say stylishly, on the high side. So as I intended to drink two bottles, I opted for house wine and selected a French blend Sauvignon Blanc and Semillion. I must admit to being a little concerned when I saw the bottle and realised it was from Bordeaux and my worst suspicions were confirmed when I tasted it; it took me back to that era in the UK when everybody demanded, and got, dry white wine. I spoke to the waiter and there were no problems in changing it for the house Pinot Grigio, which I also thought was very dry for that wine varietal. Maybe somewhat un-stylishly, I like my white wines with a bit of fruit and some subtle body. The American Merlot I had after was very good for a house wine.
So onto the food and we were given two menus, the regular and a decent list of Chef's recommendations. It was the first item on this second list that caught my eye as it was Tasmanian Wagyu Lamb! Of course the reason I was confused was the lamb bit. I checked it when I got home and yes I was right: wagyu literally translated means Japanese cow (see Wikipedia and search " wagyu"). Maybe this was a cow that had stylishly turned into a sheep thus giving a new meaning to a wolf in sheep's clothing. Maybe the wolf was a Wagyu bull all along!
Between the menus there was an impressive range of options with soft shelled crab, French calamari, and even Maine lobster getting in on the act as well as various beef variations from steaks, Black Angus as well as that darned Japanese cow, plenty of lamb recipes, and an abundance of seafood. There was also an impressive menu of pastas and in particular risottos. However I rather copped out on the starter as there was an appetizer described as Antipasto Fuzio. It was for two and I rather hoped we would get a selection of those special starters as happens in many of the better Italian eateries around town when that choice is made. Somewhat disappointingly this was little more than Antipasto carne with a variety of cold meats; nothing wrong with it and it went down well
For mains On wanted duck and selected ' crispy duck breast with wild berry sauce' which she enjoyed. From the specials menu I had ' Australian Portobello mushrooms stuffed with Italian sausage and mozzarella cheese'. This I would have enjoyed more if the chef, in his infinite, or was it stylish, wisdom, had not used a spicy chilli sauce to complete the garnish. Mushroom is a subtle taste and I am surprised that an Italian chef did that! I did point out this problem to the manager when he asked about my meal; lamentably we did not finish the conversation as his mobile rang!
To finish off I had the pear poached in red wine. The pear was fine and this is a dish I enjoy. Sadly on this occasion somebody had smothered the pear in hot chocolate sauce, an addition not mentioned in the menu description.
All in all an interesting evening perched in this airy loft that looks down on Ekamai as well as across Bangkok. The manager implied that the lack of customers was due to the newness of the business as it has only been open for a few months. Maybe that was also the reason for the little glitches. It is certainly an appealing location. The decor is certainly stylish. On that basis Fuzio probably deserves to do better.

October 2007
Also published in Sukhumvit Eye