March 15, 2006

Spasso Italian restaurant and singles night club

Spasso
Grand Hyatt Erawan
Rajdamri Rd.,
Bangkok 10330
Tel: 02 254 1234

Spasso is best known as a late night disco and classier pick up spot, rather than an Italian restaurant. However before those hoards of frustrated singles hit this area, a pretty decent Italian restaurant plies its trade. I would probably not have come here just for the restaurant had it not been for another errand I had to run in the area.
We were meeted and greeted with great enthusiasm by every staff member seemingly keen to say 'what ho.' But, of course it was Monday and about 8.30 in the evening. When I had been in before it was after 11, and at the week end. This enthusiastic greeting was a total contrast.

The restaurant is minimalist with a picture window overlooking the lower lobby level outside with the said décor just confusing enough to think it might actually be outside! There are no table clothes and it was interesting that at their witching hour, 10 pm, ashtrays arrived on all the tables. Clearly that is the time the establishment officially changes from restaurant to nightclub, and the change in volume of the music sends that message across very clearly.
The wine list was long with wines listed by grape varietals but with not a lot under 2,000 Baht, whereas the menu was much shorter with most of the Italian favourites on offer. I started with a mixed Antipasto platter. That came on a wooden chopping board and was comprehensive in terms of cold meat, and looked very good. On had crispy mixed seafood which she liked. I thought it was bit disappointing, but I suppose deep fried seafood is exactly that!
For mains there was among others, a choice of ten pastas with the usual well-known options as well as a couple of Spasso specials. One that looked interesting was fusilli with prawns, spinach, pesto, chilli and garlic. There were also a few pizzas, seafood and meat offerings. I went for lamb loin which was listed with rocket, grilled pumpkin and chick peas. I managed to get the rocket changed to mashed potatoes and although the dish looked good and was cooked medium rare as requested, there was, as far as I was concerned, one big fault. I even told the waiting staff, who seemed to suddenly lose their command of English. There was no fat! The tiny noisettes had been trimmed out of a perfectly good chop. But as all us carnivores know it is the fat that gives the taste!
However I will (almost) forgive the chef for what came next. It was described as strawberries, mint balsamic, mascarpone. Balsamic I thought? Vinegar with my strawberries? But think sweet mint sauce and strawberries and you got it. And that is a great combination and new to me.
The band cranked in at ten, on queue, and they confused me by doing some great old standards to a slow, but heavy bass tempo as well as contemporary dance numbers. I thought they were tame and a little slow for a place that likes to swing, even if it was a Monday. As for their version of 'Smoke Gets In Your Eyes' I think I prefer it with a sultry voice, a gentle rhythm section and a cool sax player - not rim shots, electric guitars and prancing jeans!
As we left, the singles were pouring in!

Posted by Sam at 11:17 AM | Comments (0)

March 8, 2006

Ma Maison at Nai Lert Park Hotel

Ma Maison
Nai Lert Park Hotel
Wireless Road
Tel: 02 253 0123

This location, right at the top of Wireless Road, I sense is not that wonderful. The hotel is barely visible from the street and my taxi driver managed to pass the entrance, leaving me with a nasty little walk up the ramp to the hotel entrance, then a nasty climb down to this restaurant on the garden floor. So I was not in the best of moods when I finally got to my table, but truth be told, I was already put off by even more that my taxi driver. This is a Raffles hotel, one of the grand hotel operators of the world and legend in more than this region. This hotel lacked anything that looked in anyway grand. There was a distinct lack of attentive personnel around in the lobby and I could not get directions to this restaurant. The décor is square sixties with a few big flowers about, and the odd piece of furniture. This hotel lobby shouted 3 and a bit -star.
But to the restaurant I was going and I am afraid the ambience was far from zappy in any way. The waiting staff were difficult to fault, yet lacked enthusiasm. The menu itself was quite interesting and the wine list not over priced.

For starters I had seared pepper salmon and avocado. The dish itself was very good and the salmon not cooked to death, thus tasting of salmon. I thought the presentation could have been improved, whereas the other starter of soft shelled crab brioche looked and tasted good.
For mains I had what was described as 'Citrus infused calf's sweetbreads, corn polenta cakes, roast monk fish tails.' They also offered 'roasted lamb with lobster tails' so somebody likes the idea of fish and meat. I certainly enjoyed my sweetbreads and it is a while since I had monk fish and that is always a treat. The other dish was described as 'melo milo of Duckling' and was another interesting dish.
As a pud I went for fantasy of apples with a sticky Calvados sauce. I was warned it would take twenty minutes and I got the feeling my decision to have it any way was not the most popular. We were the last in the restaurant but it was nowhere near late. The dish was basically a slice of apple strudel and a baked apple – presumably it must have been the baked apple that took the time.
I think I have no real need to sum up my visit. The food was well thought out, well cooked and on the whole well presented. It was five star standard. The service was correct rather than anything else, but the atmosphere was well – completely lacking. Maybe it was because it was a Sunday night, but I just think it is the hotel. There seems to be no zip in the operation and even getting a cab to leave was a drama. Definitely not the Raffles standard with which I am familiar.

Posted by Sam at 10:21 AM | Comments (0)