January 31, 2006

Tenderloins in Soi 33

Tenderloins
Bar and Grill
8 Sukhumvit Soi 33
Bangkok 10110
Tel: 02 258 4529

This is a large modern operation with a bar at the front and a restaurant and grill at the back, in the same space. The bar has a pool table and a telly and the restaurant area has very much a canteen look about it. The owner is an Aussie called Brad who already has the nearby Lookie Lookie bars as well as the Bar-B-Q shop in the soi opposite. So I suppose this makes Tenderloins an Aussie pub, albeit an upmarket one.
The first thing that really impressed me is the wine list. There are several wines at under 1,000 Baht per bottle and the house wine, an Aussie Chardonnay and a Shiraz Cabernet are both 575 Baht a bottle (125 baht a glass). In this town, that is extremely well priced, and furthermore, the wine is very drinkable. (Take note please those establishments who are unable to serve wine under a 1,000 Baht per bottle!)
As to the menu, it is a remarkably modern starter menu with mainly salads in that section. Options include prawn and rocket salad with BBQ prawns, a rocket salad with avocado and a rice salad. For mains there is an Aussie section which is primarily burgers but includes an excellent mixed grill and then the main section which is a big range of grills, including kebabs. The nice touch here is you can cook your own as the grill in the middle of the kitchen service area is accessible from both sides. I have eaten here a few times and found the main problem to be the service. It is a very new operation and I think Brad could have found a few girls who speak English, or even Strain, a tad better. Also last time I had the old problem of getting my main coming at me halfway through the starter, despite trying to tell the serving wench that is exactly what I did not want! But having made those points, this is a pub more than a restaurant and I am sure those problems will be sorted. Otherwise this is an excellent place to eat and as they say the price is more than right!

Posted by Sam at 11:22 AM | Comments (0)

January 25, 2006

Biscotti at the Four Seasons Hotel

Biscotti
Four Seasons Hotel
Rajadamri Rd
Bangkok 10330
Tel: 02 250 1000
Website:

After trying the Madison Steak House in this hotel a few months ago, I found this a much less formal restaurant, even if the general theme of minimalist browns with big flowers was maintained here. This in stark contrast to the elaborate décor of the lobby, in particular the splendid ceilings therein. I really felt that for a high-end hotel, the canteen feel is a touch too casual, but then if it works why not? I liked the idea of the central kitchen, so all-in-all, I was not complaining - just a tad surprised!
As usual I started with the wine list and had an almost instant falling out with a pretentious waiter. The wine list divided into interesting sections - fizzy, great value white, stylish whites, serious whites, fine rose, great value reds, full flavored reds, big bold reds and desert wines. They were all Italian wines and the first item of 'great value whites' was a Piedmonte wine called Cortese, a name I did not immediately recall. I have since discovered this is the grape used in Gavi wines which I often drink. So I ordered it. It had just a hint of must in the finish and it was okay, but very slightly oxidized. I mentioned this to the wine waiter who shrugged it off with 'what do you expect with cheap wine.(1,450 Baht)' I do not think his F&B manager would love him for that remark. But by the end of the meal, I had him back at heal! By then we had also drunk a Col di Sasso red and I had sampled a glass of their open Barola, which cost nearly the same as the bottle of Cortese - but I really had to try it (with my cheese).

I had one of those situations when at first glance I knew which main course I wanted. It was the Assorted Meat Combination - Pan-Seared Goose Liver, Grilled Duck Sausage, Beef Medallion, Lamb Chop and Spit-Roasted Squab (pigeon). This needed a small starter and I picked the green asparagus with a poached egg, which turned out to be a very pleasant, tasty dish with a good sauce. The other half had Frito Misto - Crispy Calamari, Shrimps and Vegetables with Fresh Tomato-Herbs Emulsion which looked a large portion, but as the batter was light and the sauce tasty, there were no complaints.
My combination was superb! I had asked for it to be cooked pink and it was. The foie gras was with a rich mushroom sauce, the sausage with a little polenta, the pigeon with spinach, the steak with rocket and parmesan, and lamb chop with potato. As anticipated, it was a large portion but I was not complaining! The other main of pork fillet with tomato and olive sauce was also greatly appreciated.
By now I was in full stride and really needed a little cheese to finish the wine, which of course proved not enough hence the Borola. I asked for pecorino and gorgonzola cheese. I suppose inevitably they arrived out of the fridge - but in a top hotel? And the pecorino was soft and I was expecting it to be hard, but that I suppose was my fault for not asking. I had an excellent raspberry creme Brule to finish.
It was a very good meal with generally speaking good service. And I am old enough to ignore waiters who get above their station. But a more sensitive person may have had their whole meal ruined by an unnecessary comment from an otherwise competent member of staff. But of course in this trade, it is the little things that matter!

Posted by Sam at 12:22 PM | Comments (0)

January 23, 2006

Les Nymphéas at The Imperial Queens Park Hotel

Les Nymphéas
Imperial Queens Park Hotel
Soi 22 Sukhumvit,
Bangkok
02 261-9000

As I may have said before, writing restaurant reviews is very subjective in the sense that it is all about a visit and my personal experience during that visit. Sometimes somebody says something that colours my experience, but on the whole it is my account and what happened to me. I went to Les Nymphéas a few weeks back and had a very acceptable meal. But I was nearly alone in the restaurant, so, balanced with the view that atmosphere is part of the essential ingredients that make up a good restaurant, I decided not to review it. Then I met a man in Le Bouchon (Patpong 2) and we got into discussing restaurants and he seemed to think I was being unfair to Les Nymphéas. I had no qualms about going back because I had had a good meal. So the other night I was nearby and thought I would try again.

I suspect the main problem this restaurant has is with its location on the fourth floor of this vast hotel. It is not well signed and not easy to find. On the first visit, I found several other restaurants before Nymphéas which is tucked away overlooking the pool in an odd-shaped room which would be fun if the place was busy, but really detracts now it is not. Nymphéas (The Water Lillis) name comes from the Monet painting of that name, and a vast mural bears some relationship to that painting as does the back of the menu.
The menu is well thought out even if it is not vast. In my mind it is a bit undirected in that it has offerings to both traditional French cooking as well as to modern international styles: thus there is foie gras in two out of seven starters, with yellow fin tuna and tomato and goat’s cheese bruschetta. And with the mains, there is Suzuki sea bass as well as morels risotto and confit de canard. There is no doubt there is something for everybody, but if you are a picky eater, then there will not be a great deal of choice, which, of course, is very much more like menus in Europe. But to be fair, there they tend to be more focused.
On the second visit I had 'Caeser salad with duck confit' and ‘lamb rack and loin under mustard crust with dauphine potatoes.' They were both spot on and I thought the idea of duck leg confit with a Caeser salad a wonderful idea that I am sure could travel a long way. For pud I had mixed fruit pudding with Metaxa brandy ice cream. I must admit the Greek brandy did not infuse any goodwill as I am not a brandy drinker anyway let alone Aegean variety! As to the pud it should have had brandy butter with it, because that is what I put with Christmas pud and that is surely what it was! I can say unequivocally that those three courses were absolutely first rate and exceedingly difficult to fault. As indeed had been my first meal of white bean soup with oregano and feta, and duck leg confit with Arborio risotto. The service was excellent and I could even watch the goings on in the kitchen.
However on this last visit I truly was the only customer. The excellent piano player started playing when I arrived, and the cooking brigade took up station as I settled in. I have eaten around the world and empty restaurants do not faze me. But others might not be so happy. However, the food was first class and I expect I will go back. As to why it is empty, I can only guess that this hotel seems more tourist orientated than most and top-end French restaurants are just not what tourists come to Bangkok for! That assumption and of course its hidden location!

Posted by Sam at 12:48 PM | Comments (0)

January 12, 2006

Enoteca Italiana: Italy in Bangkok

Enoteca Italiana
Off Sukhumvit Soi 31 (follow signs down narrow lane for 300 m)
Tel: 02 258 4386

In this town of oddball restaurants and ideas this is maybe the least likely: simply because it works. The location up a narrow lane is unforgiving enough, and then the operation, which would be at home in an Italian village barely fits in with Bangkok chic. This is a small barn-like structure which has been lovingly filled with wine and Italian hams, salamis and other cold cuts. The tables are basic but the service from the Chef and the wine man are certainly attentive. This really could be Italy. There are no pretensions, just the love of good food and good wine. Try the recommended starter of mixed hams and salamis with grilled vegetables and much more, then just ask the chef what to eat next - that is assuming that the massive starter has not done for you!
A wonderful place and I love it already, but not for impressing those who like white table clothes and plenty of pretension. This is for lovers of genuine Italian food.

Posted by Sam at 1:47 PM | Comments (0)