Biscotti
Four Seasons Hotel
Rajadamri Rd
Bangkok 10330
Tel: 02 250 1000
Website:

After trying the Madison Steak House in this hotel a few months ago, I found this a much less formal restaurant, even if the general theme of minimalist browns with big flowers was maintained here. This in stark contrast to the elaborate décor of the lobby, in particular the splendid ceilings therein. I really felt that for a high-end hotel, the canteen feel is a touch too casual, but then if it works why not? I liked the idea of the central kitchen, so all-in-all, I was not complaining - just a tad surprised!
As usual I started with the wine list and had an almost instant falling out with a pretentious waiter. The wine list divided into interesting sections - fizzy, great value white, stylish whites, serious whites, fine rose, great value reds, full flavored reds, big bold reds and desert wines. They were all Italian wines and the first item of 'great value whites' was a Piedmonte wine called Cortese, a name I did not immediately recall. I have since discovered this is the grape used in Gavi wines which I often drink. So I ordered it. It had just a hint of must in the finish and it was okay, but very slightly oxidized. I mentioned this to the wine waiter who shrugged it off with 'what do you expect with cheap wine.(1,450 Baht)' I do not think his F&B manager would love him for that remark. But by the end of the meal, I had him back at heal! By then we had also drunk a Col di Sasso red and I had sampled a glass of their open Barola, which cost nearly the same as the bottle of Cortese - but I really had to try it (with my cheese).

I had one of those situations when at first glance I knew which main course I wanted. It was the Assorted Meat Combination - Pan-Seared Goose Liver, Grilled Duck Sausage, Beef Medallion, Lamb Chop and Spit-Roasted Squab (pigeon). This needed a small starter and I picked the green asparagus with a poached egg, which turned out to be a very pleasant, tasty dish with a good sauce. The other half had Frito Misto - Crispy Calamari, Shrimps and Vegetables with Fresh Tomato-Herbs Emulsion which looked a large portion, but as the batter was light and the sauce tasty, there were no complaints.
My combination was superb! I had asked for it to be cooked pink and it was. The foie gras was with a rich mushroom sauce, the sausage with a little polenta, the pigeon with spinach, the steak with rocket and parmesan, and lamb chop with potato. As anticipated, it was a large portion but I was not complaining! The other main of pork fillet with tomato and olive sauce was also greatly appreciated.
By now I was in full stride and really needed a little cheese to finish the wine, which of course proved not enough hence the Borola. I asked for pecorino and gorgonzola cheese. I suppose inevitably they arrived out of the fridge - but in a top hotel? And the pecorino was soft and I was expecting it to be hard, but that I suppose was my fault for not asking. I had an excellent raspberry creme Brule to finish.
It was a very good meal with generally speaking good service. And I am old enough to ignore waiters who get above their station. But a more sensitive person may have had their whole meal ruined by an unnecessary comment from an otherwise competent member of staff. But of course in this trade, it is the little things that matter!