Paparazzi
Chateau de Bangkok
29 Soi Ruamrudee
Bangkok 10330
Tel: 02 651 4400

I am not sure I would be putting this review on the site if it were not for the fact that Chateau de Bangkok and Paparazzi are operated by Accor. I have a great respect for that company and apart from anything else they will understand any criticism I may make.

Paparazzi is on the first floor of this classy serviced apartment block, and that I think goes a long way to explaining the problems. Clearly this was set up as a top restaurant but I suspect that now the business is not quite what was expected. The result is it is all a bit stale. And to me the main problem was the staff, particularly the guy who served me. He had that supercilious attitude that goes with thinking you are bomb proof and knowing it all anyway. He did nothing wrong just……………………!

The menu is on a clipboard with a fork at the top. A nice gimmick that goes with the mock strip of film that separates the tables. I could not help but reflect that film is now passé, but only a few years ago we were all avidly consuming it. The central part of the restaurant is a serving area with a salad display. However it also looks like it was once a food prep area. The buffet menu is available at 250 Baht and includes the Soup of the Day. There were a fair range of starters without all the usual Italian culprits dominating. However I settled for a go at the salad and that came with corn soup. In a more expansive mood I might have gone for the goose liver.

For mains I was impressed by a couple of dishes. The mare e monti with lamb chop and rock lobster among other ingredients caught my eye and tempted me, but in the end I went for the Cervo ai fungai porchini which was described as roasted loin of venison served with porchini mushroom sauce with polenata and Italian cheese, tomato and onion. This dish persuaded me that Paparazzi is worth a write up. I like game anyway, but this was served pink as requested, the sauce genuine and the polenta with a strong cheese sauce really hit the spot. This was a really pleasant surprise and made me think that the cooking here is of a high standard. Indeed even just the look of the buffet pushed me in that direction.

There was another nice touch in that the wine list was reasonably comprehensive in a limited sort of way. Inevitably it was certainly not cheap. I had a bottle of Muscadet to start with and then noticed on the table a Romanian wine. It was a Muscat priced at 530 Baht. I asked about red and they had a Pinot Noir on display on the next table also at 530 Baht. I ordered that to go with my venison and it did go very well. That is not the first time I have come across cheap Romanian wine in a good restaurant. I do know if the price was to sell it off, it was a 2,000, but I certainly would drink it at a higher price and against several better known (selling) wines.

So my summary is good food, shame about the surroundings, the staff or therefore the atmosphere!